The engine is still standard (128bhp) but the race can gets fitted at regular intervals and I guess adds another 5 or so to that and takes a kilo or two off the overall weight, not to mention producing an exhaust note that induces wood at well over half a mile.

I’ve owned two CBR400RR's (NC23E TriArm's) and a '94 CBR600FR, which I was also very happy with although the handling of the CBR6 was unquestionably 'slack' in comparison to both Blade and CBR4. I've used Bridgestone rubber on all my bikes, the Blade starting with the medium compound BT020 and latterly softer BT010’s, which noticeably increased the grip although to be fair, it was easily possible to scrape my knee on the harder rubber. Having said that, I will always fit the softer compound in future, which I believe, has now been replaced by the BT012. I strayed from Bridgestone for the first time at my last change and fitted Metzeler Sportec M1’s, which were being praised, by my local bike shop. They are pretty good too, I'm no tyre technician but I’ve ridden in sun rain wind and snow and had no problems at all. They are all but due for replacement now and I'd happily fit either the Metz's or Bridgestone’s again.

The 'RRV' and previous models with the 16" front wheel are reputedly nervous and prone to induce tank slappers. Sadly I’ve had first hand experience of this whilst on the stop in 3rd (120mph ish) and although I’ve had plenty of tank slappers before, this particular one was incredibly violent. I had just enough time to think 'sh*t I'm in trouble' before it spat me off for a 100 yard arse surf down the A272. So ... is the 16" front wheel a problem? Hmm.... yes and no I think. Personally I love the way the bike handles and although many people fit a CBR600 17" front wheel to minimise potential tank slappers I've not gone down that road because I don’t want to change the handling characteristics of the bike. I've done 15000 miles on it with only this one major incident, at all other times the handling is quite simply superb. The other option of course is to fit a damper. I’ve no experience with dampers and cant deny their undoubted ability to reduce tank slappers but once again, I like the way it handles and I'm not too keen on reducing the speed with which I can steer. Hmmm, dilemma, I guess at some stage though, that I will either fit the 17" front or the damper, we'll see. Either way I’m in no rush, perhaps another tank slapper induced accident will change my mind. Essentially though, the bike handles great and it’s only on a crest or a bumpy road that there is any likelihood of a slapper anyway. At any other time I’ve never had a problem.

Another problem with earlier blades including the 'RRV' is an alleged weakness of the gearbox. Specifically (and once again sadly I’ve encountered this) is that it likes to jump out of second gear. The bike gets plenty of abuse and ultimately pulling endless wheelies does it no favours but there is no doubt a weakness there. To start with it happens fairly infrequently but the more you ride (even without wheelying) the more the problem develops until second gear will not hold at all enforcing a shift straight through into third. I had the drum and selector forks changed at massive expense (£650 ish) and had to wait nearly 2 months for the bits from Honda Japan (god knows why, surely Blades have endless spares in the UK?!?) Anyway, don’t bother to do this. The first time I applied serious power in second the same thing happened again. Shite. So, I did what I should have originally and trawled the net and bike magazines for the answer, which is this:

The 'Dog teeth' (imagine castle turrets locking themselves together) between 2nd and 6th gear (don’t ask why 2nd and 6th are next to each other I have no idea) become worn and that is the sole cause of the problem. Many of the people who I asked told me that it is possible to have them undercut (at some expense) and this eliminates the problem without fail.

I can't really fault any other area of the bike with the exception of the top fairing mounting bolts. I'm one of these idiots that wheelies at every possible opportunity (private roads and track only officer) and although no stunt rider I pull a pretty good one, however, on the odd occasion the front does come down harder than you'd like. I've now gone through 3 top fairing's! A result of the front mounting bolt tearing upwards into the sidelight hole. Ok, so this is totally my own fault but it is incredibly annoying, particularly when you've lashed out on an aftermarket paint job. Anyone had similar problems and worked out a way to eliminate it please let me know (cbr900rrv@aol.com)

So there you go, my thoughts on the 97 Blade. An awesome and highly recommended piece of machinery, which I will never grow, tired of. I am, of course, completely biased but asked to rate it out of 100 it would have to be 99+. I am absolutely in love with the thing and were it possible (hmm..... Denmark maybe) I would marry it. Go and buy one now!
Ride Safe John.

A little more expensive than some others but it is designed for the 954 finished in
black and it fits spot on. It took about one hour to remove and refit the indicators and all the necessary bits and pieces.

Fitting was very straight forward,
1:
Lift seat cowl, looking from the back of the bike on the right hand side there is a shroud covering both indicator joints and the rear number plate light joint, these are all colour coded so its idiot proof and should not cause any problems reconnecting them after, disconnect all three.
2:
Then remove both indicators with wires, being careful to feed them through their respective holes. Next remove the nut which holds the reflector and mudguard which is in the centre below rear light a little fiddily to get to but OK, remove the mudguard.
3:
Fit new bracket using the indicators to hold it to bodywork, bolt on number plate light, reconnect all three wires checking that they still work and a nice smaller plate, job done. (Bin the reflector).
The new bracket looks the b*ll*x and you have not had to butcher the original, so if
needed can be refitted to sell the bike on again.
Rating 9/10.
They also do a wicked exhaust bracket hanger for about £36.00, so with rear
pegs removed, new exhaust bracket and plate bracket it is looking good, now if only I could afford that Honda seat cowl?
Cheers Chris....

Wheel Polishing and Painting.

I've had my Blade 954 wheels painted and polished, by a company in Stock-on-Trent called Bikerz Tyre Services (pic of bike on Readers Rides Page 3)

I've always used Bikerz Tyre Services in Stoke-on-Trent on previous bikes I've had and Jim at Bikerz has always given me spot on service, the quality of the job is A1 and he knows that's what I expect, the Blade is the second bike I've had the wheels painted and polished on by Bikerz Tyre Services.

The job is a ride-in, ride-out service, with a 7 day turn-a-round, the cost £180, but in my opinion its money well spent as it brightens the whole appearance of the bike.
Rating 10/10.
Mark Cox

Fireblade 1996 RRT.

This Blade RRT has been fitted with a Micron race can and a Dynojet kit, and is now producing 135 Bhp and 78 lbs of torque, which seems to be pretty good for Blades of this age.

I fitted a Yoshi RS-5 end can along with DNA air filters and a Power Commander PC111usb.

The hard part was taking off the original exhaust system as some of the socket headed bolts had been over tightened and even with good quality tools they still rounded off, which meant having to drill them out, what a pain, also the foil backed heat shield has to be cut to size I'd suggest you ignore the template and make your own, which is a little fiddly and you just have enough of the supplied shield to do this.

The Yoshi system goes straight on with no problems and it looks and sounds the dog's and together with freeflow air filters and the PC111 which was easy to fit, will give you around 10bhp extra.

It's a little fluffy up to around 2500 rpm, but who lives there !! and loosing the exhaust valve which has to be removed to fit the Yoshi end can, doesn't seem to have made much, if any noticeable difference, but you do need some rolling road time to get the fueling right as the bottom end will run very weak.

Overall I'm well pleased

Coffin Dodger 1000RR