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Workshop
Guides,
Engine
Oil & Filter Change.
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All
images courtesy of Haynes manuals.
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| Changing
your own engine oil/ filter is one of the easiest thing's
you can do at home, and will save you a few quid as well. |
First
thing you'll need is an oil filter removal tool, which can
be bought from any dealers for about £5.00, and looks
a bit like the top part of the filter with a 1/2 inch hole
in the top for a socket handle to fit.
You'll also need a paddock stand, a new filter, new oil drain
screw washer and 4 litres of good quality 10w/40 oil. You
won't need all of the 4 litres except if you've got a latter
S to X model Blades, but it's better to be prepared rather
than have to walk to the bike shop to get more oil. |
Ok,
first things first, you'll need to warm the engine up to operating
temperature, then undo the rear most Dzus screws from the
infill panels, then remove both fairing mid panels, and then
remove the belly pan as a whole.
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Get
your oil drain tray, and undo the oil drain screw (pic
1) which is situated underneath the sump pan on the
left hand side just below where the gear change shaft is.
Let all the oil drain out, go have a cup of tea while it's
doing that, Ok that's better, back to the garage with you
then.
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Now
put the new washer on the drain screw and screw it back up
(pic 2) torque it up to 26 ft-lbs for N -S models and 22 ft-lbs
for T -X models.
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Then
get your oil filter wrench and undo the filter counter clockwise
(pic 3) wipe a clean rag around
the filter mounting surface, on the engine, to remove any
crud that might be lurking.
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| Get
the new filter (pic 4) and pore
some new oil inside to prime it, Oddly this isn't something
that is mentioned in the workshop manual, but is something
I have always done after I was recommended to do it by an
old mechanic frind. wipe a trace of new oil round the rubber
O' ring and screw the new filter onto the mounting either
tighten it up hand tight then a quarter twist more or torque
it up to 7 ft-lbs, which ever you find works for you. |
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Time to refill
the engine pore the new oil in to the required level, screw
the filler cap back on, and start the engine and let it
idle for 2 or 3 minutes, to get the oil pressure up, then
stop the engine let it stand for a few minutes and check
the oil level is right, if it is put the rest of the bike
back togeather, if it need's more oil top it up to the level
indicator. Do not overfill it, it will only end in tears.
The specified amount is as follows 3.2 litres N to R models
3.6
litres S to X models with a filter change or 0.1 litres
less oil change only.
There, that wasn't so hard and you've saved a few quid that
you can spend on other goodies. Like road tax and petrol.
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