Honda-Fireblades.co.uk - Workshop Guides

Fork oil changing is one of the most forgotten about thing's you can possibly do to improve the handling of your once brilliant handling bike, but is best left alone unless your a reasonably skilled home mechanic, but with a few tool's and some time you can save yourself a few quid into the bargain. The tools you will need for this little job are: A fork oil syringe or a measuring jug graded in CC's or fluid ounces, a steel rule, torque wrench, a decent socket set, some allen key's and spanner's, a paddock stand suitable for the rear and that trusty car trolley jack, I mentioned before, or preferably a decent front paddock stand a workmate or similar and of course enough fork oil to do the job, normally 2 litre's is more than enough. There is not a recommended service mileage for this but I normally do mine once every 12 months, as even a short period of time and the oil turn's into a nasty grey liquid which resembles the consistency of water.
Step 1: First thing get the bike on a paddock stand, at the rear, and either get your trusty trolley jack and support the bike with it and a flat piece of wood under the exhaust down pipes, pump it up so the front wheel is just off the ground, or a front paddock stand which would be a lot better that mount's under the steering stem under the lower yoke.
Step 2: Starting with the right side remove the bolt's for the right brake calliper and tie it back out of the way, next do the same to the left calliper, now undo the front axle clamp bolt's, the front axle retaining bolt on the right and withdraw the front axle to the left, while holding the front wheel so it doesn't drop to the ground with a loud bang, put the wheel, axle and spacers to one side, now remove the front mudguard.
Step 3: Before you undo anything else you need to loosen the fork top caps, while their still clamped in the yokes, after that now undo the lower yoke bolt's, upper yoke bolts and handle bar clamp bolt's on either side (don't remove both forks at once or you'll end up having to centralize the forks and yokes again, not good. Do one side at a time) As you slide the fork leg out of the yokes you'll need to hold which ever side clip on your doing and I always tie it to the top yoke to stop it falling and getting damaged.
Step 4: Now you've got the fork leg out, clamp it in your workmate by the lower part (not the stanchion) and undo the top cap using either a long socket or ring spanner, remove it and push down the upper fork stanchion to reveal the top cap retainer. Remove the C shaped retainer so you can undo the top cap/ spring Preload nut. You'll two open ended spanners one to hold the outer spring Preload adjuster and another to undo the lower nut. Once you've loosened the nut unscrew the top cap and withdraw the top cap complete with the rebound adjusting rod. You can now remove the washer/ spacer/washer and fork spring making sure you remember which way round these go.
Step 5: Turn the fork leg upside down to drain the oil into a oil drain tray, leave to one side for about 20-30 minutes, so all the oil is drained, after this time pump the internal rod in and out to dispel any remaining oil.
Step 6: Your now ready to refill the fork leg with new oil, clamp the leg in your workmate, and push the upper stanchion as far down as it will go, measure the required amount of fork oil into the measuring jug, and slowly pour the oil into the leg while pumping the internal rod up and down to dispel any trapped air, continue to pump the rod up and down 20 times after you've finished pouring the oil. Also pump the fork leg in & out 20 times to dispel any air. Put the spring back in with the tapered end down. Refit the washer, spacer and washer.
Pull the internal damper rod up and screw the nut down a little, push the adjuster rod into the internal rod and screw down the top cap and Preload adjuster and tighten up tight, slip the C shaped retainer in above the upper washer, then pull up the fork stanchion to meet the top cap and screw the cap into the leg. Refit the fork leg into the yokes and tighten up all the bolts.
Step 7: Do exactly the same to the other side fork leg.
Step 8: Refit the front wheel pushing in the axle from the left side (as you sit on bike), with the groove just proud on the surface, tighten the left fork leg axle clamps to specified torque, refit the axle retaining bolt in the right side and torque up, refit the front brake callipers and torque the bolts up. remove bike from paddock stands and pump the forks up and down to centralize the disc's, then torque up the right fork leg axle clamp bolt's. remount the front mudguard.....Job done.

Fork Oil Specs	Torque settings	Fork Diagram.