We also need a few tool's such as a torque wrench which read's between 0-100lb, a short socket handle also a long socket handle bar a 10mm & 30mm socket's, a 10mm ring or open ended spanner and a set of allen key's, a paddock stand to support the rear of the bike, would also be useful, and some way of lifting the front wheel slightly off the ground, such as a car trolley jack and a piece of wood to put on top where your going to be jacking the bike up under the the exhaust down pipes.

Here we go then. First position the trolley jack with that piece of wood on top, just under the exhaust down pipes, and pump it up to take the free play out, but don't jack the front wheel off the ground yet. Take the long bar and 30mm socket and undo and remove the steering stem top nut this will almost certainly be very tight, then with the 10mm socket undo and remove the two fuel tank front retaining bolts (10mm head) but leave the two large washer's, these need to be re-used and placed between the screen brace and the long damper bracket that bolt's to the fuel tank front mounting's.

Now get the fitting kit for the damper with the damper fitting kit there will be a plate which fit's against the top yoke, before you fit it to the bike, bolt the damper holding bracket to this plate, with the supplied parts, read the instructions to determine which way it faces and which way the washers or spacers fit, then tighten it up, hand tight should be ok or about 9lb, don't go mad and strip the thread.

On the underside of the top yoke plate there is a small tag, which fit's into the groove on the top yoke, take this plate and position it, so the tag fit's into the groove on the top yoke and hand tighten the top steering stem nut. Now get the bracket which fits across the tank front mounting bolts, and fit it using the supplied longer 10mm headed bolt's, position it so it faces to the right as you sit on the bike, this is so you'll be able to adjust it without taking your throttle hand off the bar's.
(yes I know it's obvious but it's amazing how many I've seen fitted the other way)**

Next pass the damper through the round bracket that you bolted to the top yoke plate, so that the end of the damper rod with the ball joint is to the right as you sit on the bike (see above bit)** and put the allen key headed bolt through the damper rod ball joint using any spacers supplied and tighten it to the required torque. Now make sure the steering is facing straight ahead and move the damper body so it is about equel on both side's, of the yoke bracket, now tighten the bolt to hold it still, also now tighen the top steering stem nut to the required torque.

Ok here is where you need the trolley jack, pump it up so the front wheel is just off the ground, move the steering to left and right making sure you have full movement and travel on the damper, and that it doesn't hit the tank or screen brace doing this, if it doesn't hit anything then fine your finished. If not then you'll need to move the damper body in the mounting bracket to make sure it does clear everything else.

Lastly DOUBLE check you've tighened everything back up to the right torque setting's, remove the trolley jack and you can now go out feeling proud in a job well done and that you'll have no more tank slappy moment's.