Honda-Fireblades.co.uk - Workshop Guides

Fitting a tail tidy is probably the single most obvious mod you can make to the new 2004/05 model Blade, and is actually pretty easy once you've got over the problem of trying to remove the rear seat panel, which is a lot easier than it look's. Firstly you need t remove both the riders seat pad and the passenger pad, the riders seat pad is secured by two Allen headed bolts, and the rear simply unclips, then remove the 4 Allen headed bolts which hold the rear cowl panel in place, you'll then need to "FLEX" the panel at the bottom to remove it, and ease it back off the two locating lug's I found it pretty easy too lift the right hand side up first then ease the left side up and away.
	Pic 1 Once you've removed the rear seat unit cowl, and unbolted the original mudguard unit, you'll be left with the bike looking like this, Now although it's tempting to leave it in this state, the cops will probably take dim view of your number plateless back end.
	So next step, is to start fitting the side plates as in picture 2 below fit the side plates, but leave the retaining bolt's slightly loose, Now at this point my advice is DON'T use the supplied bolt's and washers; at least with these particular Harris one's, I'd suggest you use the original one's as I felt they where more substantial to mount the the plates to the subframe.
	Now before you offer up the middle part, remove the original winkers and number plate lamp and bolt the number plate lamp to the middle plate, now offer up the middle plate to the side plates, and fit each winker in turn and tighten the nut's using a 10mm ring spanner. Once all the nut's on the winkers which actually hold the middle plate to the side plates are tight, you can tighten the bolt's which hold the side plates to the subframe, now don't go mad and strip them at this point Eh !!!
	Now reconnect all the wires to the main wiring loom, and secure them on the left hand side plate with some cable (zip) ties, making sure they are clear of the exhaust, now there isn't a lot of clearance, so my advice is run them up the bottom of the left plate, you can just see them in picture 3 where the white cable ties are, In fact you want to use 3 or 4 cable ties to secure the wires, and also use the original wire retaining clip from behind the number plate lamp.
	Now refit the rear seat cowl panel, making sure you have enough clearance with the repositioned wires, and slip it over the retaining lugs on the subframe. Replace to 4 Allen headed bolts making sure the 2 shorter ones go in the top of the cowl and the longer ones in the side mounting's. Refit your number plate, make sure all the lights work, which shouldn't be a problem as all the block connectors are colour coded.
Make sure nothing is fouling the exhaust and your finished, Job done and the back end is looking much, much better, just a shame about that barn door sized number plate and the Scot Oiler hanging out in the breeze, but then we can't have everything Eh !!! All in all the job took about 1 hour to complete, and the biggest problem was trying to re-route the wires so they cleared the exhaust satisfactorily, take your time and it should all be OK, use the supplied cable wrap to secure the wires well away from the exhaust, I can't stress this enough, otherwise there'll be a smell of burning electric's and you most definitely "don't" want that , now do you...